“We are the North Side Skull and Bones Gang
We’ve come to remind you before you die
You better get our life together
Next time you see us, it’ll be too late to try”
I didn’t really intend to be in New Orleans for Mardi Gras this year, but after getting a late start from Washington in January and spending more time in Mississippi than I had planned, the stars aligned and I found myself pulling into New Orleans on the Saturday of Mardi Gras weekend. Normally when I’m here for Mardi Gras, I come to town at least week early to catch some of my favorite parades, see some friends, eat some of that great New Orleans food and enjoy myself. By the time Fat Tuesday rolls around, I’m already pretty tired from all of the lead-up. This year, I was still pretty fresh for the big day, and I wanted to experience some of the traditions I had either never seen before, or not experienced in the way I wanted to. I kept a loose plan in my head and allowed myself to go with the flow, warning my friends that I might break off at any moment and go a different direction. This all allowed me to have an amazing Mardi Gras, see some different sides to the experience, and gain a better understanding of the traditions of the day. I thought I’d share my my Mardi Gras with y’all in this post.
North Side Skull and Bones Gang
My Mardi Gras started earlier than most peoples’ this year. In fact, when I rolled out of my van at 4:45 a.m. in the heart of the Treme neighborhood, there were definitely people on their way home from the night before. I have never had it in me to make it out for what I consider the true kick-off of Mardi Gras Day in New Orleans, the march of the North Side Skull and Bones Gang. The Gang has been around since 1819, so is celebrating its 201st year this year. When they come out of the Backstreet Cultural Center at 1116 Henriette Delille St, sometime around 5:30 a.m, the drums kick in and the Gang Big Chief wishes those gathered a good morning and a Happy Mardi Gras and then they begin their chants and dances. When this opening ceremony ends, the Gang begins their march through the neighborhood, banging on doors, ringing doorbells and greeting everyone with a message of peace for the day. Some people are ready and waiting, and others truly seemed surprised and a little shocked by the before-sunrise wake-up call. The gang sings, chants and dances their way up the streets of Treme and their following grows as they go. Waking up to kick off my Mardi Gras with the North Side Skull and Bones Gang was truly an awesome experience. It was something I thought I would only do this once, but now I almost can’t imagine Mardi Gras without them.
Brunch in the Marigny + The Saint Anthony Ramblers
If you read my post on last year’s Mardi Gras (if not, find it HERE), you may remember that my first stop was brunch in the Marigny neighborhood with my friends Mike and Kristy. I was grateful for a return invitation this year, so after a much needed cup of coffee I headed in that direction. It was great to see familiar faces and some of the wonderful costumes they had come up with. Even though it was only 8:30, I’d been up for almost 4 hours so I had my first beer. We all hung out and laughed and ate and got ready to head out into the Mardi Gras wonderland that is New Orleans. After brunch, we set out to join the Saint Anthony Rambler at the firehouse right up the road, a walking parade I joined last year as well. It was a wonderful group of costumed revelers out to enjoy the pleasant morning, to listen to great music and dance through the streets of the Marigny.
Mardi Gras Indians
When the parade made its way onto St. Bernard Avenue, I was hoping to see some of the Mardi Gras Indian Tribes I saw last year, so I could break off from the parade and follow them for a while. The routes the Indians follow is their own, and unlike the parade routes, isn’t published anywhere. You have to go out and find them. It was a lucky day in that soon after I arrived, I saw the Cherokee Hunters representing the 9th Ward come around the corner and onto St. Bernard. I joined them in their march all the way up to Galvez. We encountered quite a few other Tribes along the way and it was awesome to see each of their Spy Boys come out and chant to each other before the Big Chiefs came and met. This was all incredible to witness and see this beautiful tradition live on. The meetings were all very cordial as they got to see the intricate costume designs and bead work of the other Indians in the contest to see who is “the prettiest”. These costumes take hundreds of hours to prepare and assemble and are truly spectacular to see. I was so happy to encounter several different Tribes and take these photos. After I left the Cherokee Hunters, I went back to my van for some water, some more beers and a costume change and saw one last tribe making its way through Treme. The Mardi Gras Indians in all their glory was definitely the highlight of my day.
The French Quarter and the River
By that point in the day I was starting to fade. I headed back to the French Quarter for a little bit of a wander, and to see some more of the walking parades. I had really wanted to see the end of the St. Ann’s Parade where people pour the ashes of their loved ones into the Mississippi River, but I didn’t make it in time for that. I did hear some great music, saw some amazing costumes, and even caught up with my friend Walker who was also celebrating his birthday. A Mardi Gras birthday is pretty special since the date changes every year. As the sun started to dip towards the horizon, the out and about part of my Mardi Gras came to a close. I packed up and headed back to my friend Luke’s place for brats, beers, basketball and a very long and restful night.
Many thanks to everyone who made this Mardi Gras so special. It really is a magical day and everyone should experience it at some point in their life. I don’t think I’ll be here for Mardi Gras next year, but I said that last year too, so you never know. After New Year passes, the urge to get back to New Orleans for the big day is like a magnet, and it’s hard to resist. I do know this was definitely not my last Mardi Gras in New Orleans, as I’m just starting to get it figured out. Laissez les bons temps rouler!