It was truly a privilege to once again be able to attend a Native American powwow. Powwows are gatherings of American Indians to celebrate their shared culture with an emphasis on music, drumming and dance. Threading Our Legacies Powwow was held at the basketball arena on the University of Utah campus in Salt Lake City. The Ute, Shoshone and Navajo tribes seemed to be the most well-represented tribes there, but it also seemed as though people had come from far and wide to participate. During the Grand Entrance which begins the powwow, hundreds of dancers followed the eagle staff and flags onto the floor and there were at least 5 drum groups to provide the rhythm of the day. Powwows are incredibly colorful events with participants wearing beautiful regalia which takes many hours to create. These photos are just a small sampling of the people who participated in the day but I hope they will give you some idea of how beautiful it was and how awesome it was to be there.
Pulling into tiny Helper, Utah is like stepping back in time. Whatever way you come into town, you are likely to drive past one of their amazingly preserved vintage gas stations on your way in. These are perfect inside and out and you should definitely stop to check them out. When you pull onto Main Street, you will definitely be impressed by how well they have kept up their historic district and it feels like you are on a movie set somewhere. The only other place I have visited that had the same feel was Lowell, Arizona, but Helper feels more alive and less like a ghost town.
Located in Carbon County, this is definitely coal country, but the town developed around the railroad when the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad (D&RGW) came through in 1881. The town gets its name because the trains needed an extra push to get them over the next hill, so an extra engine, or “helper” was attached. Between the mines and the railroad, Helper grew to a population of around 20,000 people who came to work in these industries from all over the world. The mines and the railroad still exist in the area, but increased mechanization has decreased the need for workers and the population has dropped by 90%. That said, the people who have remained decided to do what they could to preserve the history of the town and have worked hard to create the Helper you’ll find there today.
I was thrilled to find the Matt Warner Lodge of E Clampus Vitus while I was there. ECV is the historic organization I’ve been a part of for the last 20 years or so, but this is the only Lodge in all of Utah. They are working hard to preserve the history of the area while helping run many of the community’s events like the Easter egg hunt, which they were all excited about while I was there. It was nice to have some company for a change, and the Brothers filled me in on a lot of the local history. Their Lodge is located in the historic Carbon Hotel which was the last functioning brothel in Helper and was open into the 1970s. ECV historic plaques can be found throughout Helper and in many nearby towns and help tell the story of the communities which have long since faded into the past.
If you’re ever on your way to Salt Lake City from Moab or Grand Junction, definitely be sure to stop in Helper, you’ll be glad you did. I hope you enjoy these photos from Helper which is definitely Utah’s cutest small town.
I had a blast in Vernal, Utah - a fun little city of about 10,000 people in the far east of the Beehive State. Fremont Indians once lived in the area and were later followed by Utes who still live there today. When the Mormons came to Utah, they saw no reason to settle in the region despite the Green River flowing nearby. In fact, settlers didn’t come to what is now Vernal until 1879. The railroad came through in 1906 and Vernal was incorporated and began to grow. Just three years later, paleontologist Earl Douglass discovered a massive deposit of dinosaur bones and fossils just east of Vernal and it would be designated as Dinosaur National Monument in 1915. Oil and mineral extraction are probably the biggest drivers of Vernal’s economy, but dinosaur tourism certainly plays a significant role, as you can tell from the photos in this post.
I was only planning on staying a short while in Vernal, but ended up there for several days. I enjoyed checking out the dinosaur quarry at the National Monument, and the Field House Museum in the middle of town. The recreation center was top-notch and I even got to catch some bull riding while I was there. Mostly, it’s just fun town with a good feeling to it and friendly people at every stop. That and the sunsets were hard to beat. I hadn’t been to Vernal in many years and I was glad I made the trek to get there. I hope you enjoy these photos from Vernal, definitely a fun town in the heart of dinosaur country.
Nine Mile Canyon as often been called “The World’s Longest Art Gallery”. Despite its name, the canyon stretched 46 miles through east central Utah and has as many as 10,000 petroglyphs along its course. This route has been traveled for thousands of years, undoubtedly beginning as a wildlife trail which followed the easiest path through the mountains. It was used by a people we refer to as the Fremont People for many hundreds of years and they are responsible for most of the petroglyphs chipped into the canyon walls. Later, Ute Indians made their way through the canyon and made their own carvings, including those of horses and bison. Fur trappers and settlers followed the old Indian trails. The Nine Mile Canyon Road was originally built by the Black Buffalo Soldiers of the Ninth Cavalry to connect old Fort Duchesne to the railroad at Price. Once the road was complete, stagecoaches started using the canyon to deliver mail and freight and settlements began to spring up. Later, mining and natural gas extraction began in Nine Mile Canyon and continues today. Nobody knows how 46 mile long Nine Mile Canyon was named. Many people believe that explorer John Wesley Powell named it because the name first appears in his journals, but Powell was pretty good at naming things so I’m not buying that explanation. Also, I love a good mystery and don’t mind when one goes unsolved.
I started my drive from Wellington, just south of Price. The road is paved all the way to the Great Hunt Panel (and beyond if you continue up the side canyon), but has a stretch of decently maintained gravel road if you want to continue through to Myton (which I did). I loved seeing so many wonderful petroglyphs in such a small area and I know I only scratched the surface (pun intended) of what was out there. My favorite is the first one pictured below: Coyote Placing the Stars. I also loved the Owl Panel and the Juggling Man and of course the Great Hunt which is one of Utah’s most famous panels. There were a lot of old homesteads along the way and even an old townsite once called Harper but abandoned over a hundred years ago. There are some beautiful new homes out there as well and aside from the mining trucks rumbling past I imagine it’s pretty quiet out there most of the time. I really enjoyed my day out in Nine Mile Canyon and I hope you enjoy these photos I took along the way.
Canyonlands National Park is one of the most beautiful National Park’s in the country. Originally proposed by the superintendent of nearby Arches National Park in the early 1950s, debate over the area’s mineral resources kept this land from being protected until 1964 when President Lyndon Johnson signed it into law. Canyonlands is divided into four different sections: The Island in the Sky, The Needles, The Maze (which includes Horseshoe Canyon) and the Green and Colorado Rivers which come together within the park’s boundaries. It’s a geologic fantasy land of spires and canyons, buttes and mesas, caves and rapids. Like most of the area, Canyonlands’ scenery is at its best along the edges of the day when the sun is low and the sandstone takes on magical hues. I have really enjoyed visiting Canyonlands several times over the years, but my recent visit to The Needles was definitely the highlight for me, especially the hike out to Chesler Park from Elephant Hill. I hope you enjoy these photos from beautiful Canyonlands National Park.
Hello Everyone! Greetings to you all from Grand Junction, Colorado. As I mentioned last week, I have just dipped over the border for the day because I wanted to pay a quick visit to Colorado National Monument. While I’m here I got some groceries and now I’m going to hole up in the library and get this week’s newsletter done before returning to Utah later today. Crossing into another state is fascinating when you’ve really dug in somewhere for a few weeks and have been paying close attention to the culture of a place. Crossing from Nevada into Utah or Utah into Colorado is very much like crossing into a different country. Not like going from Sweden to Uganda, but more like going between England and Wales or between Cambodia and Laos – there are plenty of similarities, but they’re also remarkably different. I’ve really been enjoying my time in Utah and this feels like I’m cheating on it, but I’m sure Utah will get over it and I’m really looking forward to the rest of my time in The Beehive State. I’ve spent more of this last week on the trail than on the road, and that’s been an excellent use of my time. It’s been another soul-stirring week out here, so let’s get right into what I’ve been up to since last I wrote.
After I finished this post last week, I ended up spending another morning there in Blanding, a town I grew quite fond of during my three night stay. I started off my day with a quick visit to the Four Corners Cultural Park (the “four corners” refers to the shared border of Utah, Arizona, New Mexico and Colorado, the only place in the country where four states come together in a squared off fashion). I thought this cultural park was really cool because you could walk between examples of the “houses” of the different cultures that came together in Blanding. There were Ute teepees, Navajo hogans, a Mexican hacienda and Mormon pioneer cabins all within a short walk of each other and I thought it was just a neat place to check out. From there I went to the museum at Edge of the Cedars State Park which displays cultural artifacts found around the area and interprets the cultures which came before the modern inhabitants of the region. The museum’s pottery collection is remarkable and it’s amazing to see the artistic expression of the people who made these items. These bowls and jugs were not simply utilitarian, they were beautifully crafted and then painted with precise geometric designs and were all very impressive. The museum also had a beautiful macaw shawl which has kept its bright coloration for over a thousand years. I always find the macaw feathers found here fascinating because they are evidence of the vast trade networks of these earlier cultures which stretched deep down into what’s now Mexico (where macaws were commonly found). I’m sure this one cost someone a few beautifully crafted pottery items in trade. The museum was fabulous, and the ruins out back were okay but not nearly as good as so many others I have visited in the last few weeks.
Natural Bridges National Monument became Utah’s first National Monument in 1908. It protects three impressive natural bridges situated in White and Armstrong Canyons in the southeast part of the state. A natural bridge is geologically different from an arch in that a bridge is formed by running water whereas an arch is not. Utah has quite a few of both.
The human history of this area stretches back at least 9,000 years as archaeologists have found tools and other evidence dating to that time. Ruins in the park show that the Ancestral Puebloans inhabited the area from around 700AD to around 1270AD. In more recent times, Paiute and Navajo people have made their homes in and around these canyons. in 1883, a man named Chris Hite wandered up White Canyon in search of gold and brought word of these magnificent natural bridges to the outside world. National Geographic did a story on the bridges in 1904 and in 1908 Theodore Roosevelt designated them a part of a new National Monument. Very few visitors came in the early years of the park as it was a three day horseback ride from the nearest town. A uranium boom in the 1950s brought roads to the area and those roads were paved in 1976, allowing easier access to see the bridges.
Natural Bridges National Monument is a beautiful place. It’s quiet and remote and definitely off the beaten path. Unfortunately, I imagine most people visit on their way between one place and the next and only stop at the overlooks to get a look at the bridges. To really appreciate them, you need to hike down into the canyon and get a closer look. The trail to Sipapu Bridge is an adventure in its own right, descending several ladders on the way to the canyon floor. Getting down to Kachina and Owachomo Bridges is easier, and I even enjoyed hiking between these two along the canyon bottom. Like most of the Desert Southwest, the natural bridges are at their best at the edges of the day when the sun is low and the sandstone lights up. I hope you enjoy these photos from beautiful Natural Bridges National Monument, well worth the detour if you’re ever in the area.
Goblin Valley is another of Utah’s incredible fantasy landscapes. It’s a place that quickly captures your imagination and leaves you smiling the whole time you are there. Located in a remote part of Emery County, you have to make an effort to get to Goblin Valley, but you’ll definitely be glad you did. The “goblins” are technically hoodoos, made of soft lower layers of sandstone and capped with a harder layer which causes water to erode them from the outside in instead of from the top down. The main amphitheater has thousands of goblins and is an incredible place to just wander, especially during the edges of the day when the low light illuminates the goblins and cooler air prevails. Beyond the amphitheater are other dream landscapes to explore, including the caves known as the Goblin’s Lair and the Goblette’s Lair, the Toadstools, beautiful Wild Horse Butte and the amazing Wild Horse Slot Canyon. Most people spend about an hour in Goblin Valley, but the longer you spend, the more you’ll find to keep you busy. Thanks to the prompting of my friend, Jack, I spent the whole day there and was definitely happy that I did. I hope you enjoy these photos from beautiful Goblin Valley - Magic in the Red Rocks of Utah.
Snow Canyon State Park is one of the most stunning state parks I’ve ever seen. When I was considerably younger, I dated a woman who was an identical twin. When I met her sister, I could obviously tell that they were twins, but they were also completely different. Having spent many months of my life in nearby Zion National Park, driving into Snow Canyon felt much the same. The scenery looks so familiar to me, but it was all totally new as well. I loved it.
Located just north of St. George, Snow Canyon is a part of the Red Cliffs Desert Preserve. Much like Zion, Snow Canyon rests at the junction of the Colorado Plateau, the Mojave Desert and the Great Basin, exhibiting characteristics of all three. The rock formations are composed mainly of sandstone. The red formations contain iron while the white cliffs do not. Unlike in Zion, there are also cool volcanic areas including several lava tubes.
Human history here stretches back over 2000 years. Ancestral Puebloan cultures passed through the area often, and later, Paiute Indians would come to Snow Canyon. Mormons arrived in the area in the 1850s. One of Utah’s first state parks, it was originally called Dixie State Park and was later renamed after local Mormon pioneers Lorenzo and Erastus Snow. If you ever have the opportunity to visit, definitely come check it out. I hope you enjoy these photos from beautiful Snow Canyon State Park.
Boulder City, Nevada was founded in 1931 by the United States Bureau of Reclamation to house workers who were there to construct the Boulder Dam (which was renamed the Hoover Dam in 1947). Originally intended to house 5,000 workers for several years while the dam was being built, the town was thoughtfully laid out with plenty of parks and recreation opportunities and thus earned the early nickname of “Nevada’s Garden City”. Founded during prohibition and with the goal of having productive workers, alcohol was prohibited in Boulder City until 1969 and gambling has never been allowed within the city limits making it look and feel different from any other town I visited during my time in Nevada. The federal government maintained control of Boulder City until 1959 when the town was finally incorporated and the citizens elected their first mayor. Boulder City is a pleasant little community which I really enjoyed. The people were friendly and there were some great bars and restaurants and a surprising amount of live music on offer. I also loved all of the public art around town, especially the statues dedicated to the regular folks who made up the community in the early days. There’s a statue of a woman hanging laundry, one of a man with a shovel and another of the janitor resupplying toilet paper to the public restrooms (an unsung hero if ever there was one). All of the statues in town were tastefully decorated for the upcoming Valentine’s Day during my visit which put a smile on my face. I had a great stay in Boulder City which may be only 45 minutes from downtown Las Vegas, but feels a world apart. I hope you enjoy these photos from Boulder City - The Town that Built the Hoover Dam.
Hello Everyone!
It’s been an interesting first week here in Utah. I’ve visited some absolutely beautiful places, learned some fascinating history, and generally had a really good time. Utah is a tremendous contrast to Nevada in so many ways. The landscape is on a smaller scale with more canyons and valleys, buttes and mesas and fewer vast stretches of open desert surrounded by imposing mountain ranges. Culturally, Utah is a predominantly Mormon state so it is more modest and conservative than Nevada (in a cultural sense, not necessarily a political one as Utah is also very conservative politically). Mormons are also very serious about preserving their culture and history, especially from the pioneer days which they consider pre-1869 which was when the railroad across Utah was completed. Because of this there is a tremendous amount of information available and the Daughters of Utah Pioneers have some wonderful museums to display items from Utah’s history. Bars are few and far between and with the exception of a few drinks on Mardi Gras Day, I’ve been sober since I arrived in the Beehive State which is a good thing. But also, I haven’t been bored as there are actually things to do at night here which don’t involve alcohol which I’ve really been enjoying. The weather has gone from hot and sunny to blustery and snowy and I haven’t traveled in more than about 60 miles from the border where I entered the state. All in all, it’s been a fascinating week which has really reinvigorated my journey, so let me tell you all about it.
I absolutely loved visiting this old ghost town just south of Nelson, Nevada. It’s located near the site of the old Techatticup Mine in the heart of El Dorado Canyon. Gold and Silver were discovered in El Dorado Canyon in 1859 and a huge population influx soon followed. It grew to be a rough and sinister town and was named for Charles Nelson, a mining director who was killed in his home. Because of its proximity to the Colorado River, it was relatively easy to get people and supplies in and out when compared to other mine locations. The mines in the area were active until 1945, producing several million dollars worth of minerals. Today, the town is privately owned and open to visitors during daylight hours. It’s clearly staged for photography but that didn’t make me love it any less. It seems as though a lot of weddings are held on the property as well. I hope you enjoy these photos from the colorful ghost town of Nelson, Nevada deep in the heart of El Dorado Canyon.
