One of the west’s most fascinating historical figures to me has always been Chief Joseph of the Wallowa Nez Perce. Joseph was both a warrior and a peacemaker but ended up in an impossible position in 1877 after a treaty guaranteeing his band’s place in the Wallowa Valley was broken and four white settlers were killed by his people in the aftermath. He fled towards the Canadian border with his band but was overtaken just shy of the border. In the aftermath of what has become known as the Nez Perce War, the Wallowa band was resettled on the Colville Reservation in Washington which I visited late last year. Joseph traveled far and wide speaking on behalf of his people and never gave up hope of returning to his beloved Wallowa Valley. He spoke so fondly of it that I knew I had to go visit the area when I had the opportunity. What I found was a stunning valley, surrounded by mountains and ribboned with rivers and lakes, As soon as I descended into the valley I could see why Chief Joseph was so passionate about it. In addition to being their traditional homeland and the place where their dead are buried, it clearly provided them with everything they would have ever needed.
Nestled in the heart of the Wallowa Valley is the town of Enterprise, an adorable little mountain town founded in 1886 and now home to about 2,000 people. Enterprise is both the county seat of Wallowa County and the main supply town for the region. The railroad arrived in 1908 allowing the Eastern Oregon Lumber Company to form a few years later. Lumber is still a major player in the local economy and, along with the local ranching operations, helps keep the town afloat. I loved the little historic downtown core which is clean and well-kept, and dinner at the Range Rider was also a treat. I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Enterprise and the Wallowa Valley and I hope you enjoy these photos from my visit.
When I drove out to Palouse Falls I knew it was in the middle of nowhere and I knew I would stay until sunset. What I didn’t know is where I would end up for the night. I figured I’d just drive until I found somewhere good. When I pulled into Dayton, I knew I was there. Dayton is the cutest town I found anywhere in the Pacific Northwest. The historic 1881 train depot (Washington’s oldest), the circa 1887 county courthouse, the old schoolhouse and the historic Liberty Theatre are so quintessentially small-town America that they made me smile from ear to ear. The bustling main street with the delightful Moose Creek Bakery and the wonderful Buckwheat Brewery was great too. I think what made me smile the most, though, was their undeniable local spirit. It seemed as though everyone in town was supporting The Bulldogs with hand painted signs in almost every window. I had a wonderful stay in Dayton and lingered longer than I ever would have imagined. I hope you enjoy these pictures of beautiful Dayton, home of The Bulldogs and Washington’s picture perfect small town.
Roslyn is a tiny town of less than a thousand people in the heart of the coal mining region of Kittitas County. The community was founded in 1886 as a company town for the Northern Pacific Coal Company. Coal miners came from all over the world to work in Roslyn, creating a diverse community, and many ethnic social clubs began to form. Tragedy struck in 1892 when Roslyn Mine #1 exploded killing 45 local miners in the deadliest mining accident in Washington history. The mines would continue to operate until 1963. Roslyn has maintained much of its coal town appearance and has been listed on the National Register of historic places. The town has been used as the filming location for several TV and movie projects, most notably transforming into the fictional Alaskan town of Cicely for the show Northern Exposure. The mural of the Cafe Roslyn features prominently in the show’s opening credits and was originally placed there by my friend Gabe’s aunt who ran the cafe and had an affinity for Camel cigarettes. Roslyn is also home to The Brick, the oldest continuously operating bar in the state. Just outside of town are 26 fascinating cemeteries which are technically separate but are all adjoining. These served the different social and ethnic societies in their time and provide an interesting window into the town’s past.
I had a great time during my brief stay in Roslyn. I loved all of the old buildings and remember seeing some of them before on TV. Marco’s Place had a great barbecue special the night I visited and the downstairs speakeasy at the Base Camp bookstore was a lot of fun. The Brick is a must-visit place and had live music the night I was there. Although I didn’t see it, there is supposedly an old jail cell in the basement for any patrons who get out of line. I’m definitely glad I made my way out to tiny Roslyn, Washington which really had a lot to offer for a town that small. I hope you enjoy these photos as much as I enjoyed taking them.
Most states have at least one town with a European theme and if you’ve been following this blog for a while, you've seen that they are too rich in photography opportunities to pass up. Which is the point. Poulsbo, a small town of just over 11,000 residents, is a beautiful example of how to do this well and judging by the number of tourists I saw there during my stay, it’s working well for them.
This area was originally inhabited by the Suquamish people who currently live on a reservation just down the road. After the Treaty of Point Elliott was signed in 1855 moving American Indians in Washington onto reservations, the vacated land was open to settlement. Norwegian immigrant Jørgen Eliason founded the townsite in 1880 and was soon joined there by other Scandinavians who appreciated the landscape and location on what’s now called Liberty Bay. When the town grew to a size that it needed a post office, one citizen recommended “Paulsbo” after his Norwegian hometown. The authorities in Washington DC misread the handwriting on the petition and the town would forever after be known as Poulsbo instead. Norwegian was the primary language spoken in the town until World War II when the town experienced an influx of GIs who came to work at the nearby Puget Sound Naval Shipyard in Bremerton.
I had a fantastic time in Poulsbo. I was thrilled to find some great Oktoberfest beers on tap and delicious European comfort food at Tizley’s Europub. I enjoyed another great fest beer while sitting next to a lovely outdoor fire pit at Valholl Brewery, and live music at The Brass Kraken finished off the night. The next morning I had a delicious pastry from Sluy’s Bakery and then sat down to all-you-can-eat pancakes at the Sons of Norway Hall. In between all of that fun, I managed to take some great photos, especially around dusk when the water was still and amazingly reflective. I hope you enjoy these photos from beautiful Poulsbo, Kitsap County’s Little Norway.
