Rio Grande del Norte is one of our more recent National Monuments, having been designated as such in 2013. It protects the confluence of the Red River and the Rio Grande which are both designated Wild and Scenic Rivers. Both gorges are gorgeous and the point of land above the confluence, called simply El Punto, provides amazing views from high above the two rivers. I hiked the Little Arsenic Trail while I was there, which brought me down to the Rio Grande and led me straight to the confluence. It was one of the better hikes I did during my stay in New Mexico and was very rewarding around every turn. I spent the night at the campground on the canyon rim and enjoyed a beautiful sunset in the evening and a magical sunrise the following morning. In between, the stars were spectacular. I debated whether to drive out to this park as it was somewhat out of the way, but I’m sure glad I did as it is stunning from end to end. If you’re ever in the area, you should as well. I hope you enjoy these photos from beautiful Rio Grande del Norte National Monument.
Shhh. This is one of the towns nobody wants me to tell you about. Red River is a stunning little ski town along the Enchanted Circle in Northern New Mexico. It looks a lot like a Colorado ski town, but smaller, quainter, cheaper and with that special New Mexico sense of enchantment. I was there on a beautiful spring morning when the sun was shining but the air was cool and crisp. Despite plenty of snow on the mountain, it was sadly closed for the season.
Native Americans have hunted up and down the Red River for centuries, but the town’s beginnings were as a mining camp in the late 19th century when gold, silver and copper were being pulled from the hills. The town boomed to a population of around 3000 by the turn of the century, and as the mineral deposits started to dwindle, Red River gained a reputation as a cool weather getaway and a trout fishing paradise.
Red River today has a year-round population of just around 500, but it will multiply many times over on winter weekends when the town is buzzing with vacationers. No matter where you are staying in town, you could probably walk to the slopes with the lifts taking off from right in the center of town. In the warmer months, the area is full of trails and fishing is still a major draw and the the high elevation makes it cooler than towns to the south, east and west. I loved my short stay in Red River and it is one of the towns that I will definitely be returning to in the future. I hope you enjoy these photos from Red River, New Mexico’s classic ski town.
The area that is now Tucumcari was once home to dinosaurs who walked the shores of an inland sea. When the water receded, the sediment formed into sandstone and one of the formations it left is now called Tucumcari Mountain (although it’s really more of a mesa). Prehistoric people tracked mammoths and mastodons in the area and later developed farming techniques and built villages. In the 18th century, the Apache and Comanche moved through the area, hunting bison and pronghorn. The name, Tucumcari, comes from an Apache word “tukanukaru,” meaning “to lie in wait for something to approach”. In the early 20th century, the Chicago, Rock Island and Union Pacific Railroad was making its way across the country and a tent city sprung up called Ragtown and, later, Six Shooter Siding. As the camp grew into a town, they changed the name to Tucumcari and it stuck. Route 66 came through in 1926 and the town became an overnight stop for people headed west. Signs for miles declared “Tucumcari Tonight” and people pushed through for the promise of a hot meal and a comfortable bed. Tucumcari today still capitalizes on nostalgia for the “Mother Road”, but also has a wonderful museum downtown which has a place for everything and everything has been lovingly put into place. I had a great stop in Tucumcari and definitely got my kicks on Route 66. I hope you enjoy these photos from beautiful Tucumcari, New Mexico.
People have been in the Clovis area for at least 10,000 years as is evidenced by the “Clovis-man” finds at the nearby Blackwater Draw archaeological site. The town itself came much later, in 1906 in fact, when the Atchison Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad was making its way across the country. It’s the first town of any size you’ll find coming from Texas and the town has some Texas tendencies to be sure. It’s grown to a population of nearly 40,000 people and is the county seat of Curry County. For all it has to offer, it was a man named Norman Petty that brought me to Clovis. Petty started playing piano at an early age and in his mid-twenties had a hit record with his wife, Vi, and guitarist Jack Vaughn when they recorded the great DC born Duke Ellington’s Mood Indigo. The record’s success gave Norman enough money to open his own recording studio and in 1954 the Norman Petty Recording Studio was born. Petty recorded local artists and plenty from nearby Texas as well. In 1957, he produced a hit called Party Doll for Happy, Texas’ Buddy Knox. It was another Buddy though, Buddy Holly, who would really put Petty and Clovis on the music map. Norman would go on to produce records for Roy Orbison, Bobby Vee, The Fireballs and many others and their distinct style would be remembered as the Clovis Sound. I had a great time in Clovis and found a lot to like about it from its art deco buildings to its wonderful Vi and Norman Petty Museum. The downtown wind art was both beautiful and appropriate. Sadly it was cloudy for much of my visit, but it did manage to clear up right before I left so I did grab a few photos under sunny skies. Who knew New Mexico played such an important role in music history. If you’re ever in the area, stop in and check it out. I hope you enjoy these photos from musical Clovis, New Mexico.
After the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo ended the Mexican-American War in 1848, New Mexico officially became a part of the United States. Americans started moving west to try and stake a claim in this new territory, but were often met with hostility by Indians trying to protect what they believed belonged to them. In response, the U.S. government built Fort Union at the main junction on the Santa Fe Trail. The original fort was good enough for that purpose, but a second, stronger, fort was built during the Civil War and a third fort soon replaced the second. The fort served two main purposes which were independent of each another - one being a military post and the other, a quartermaster depot. The depot was the supply hub for the government in the southwest and received hundreds of wagonloads of supplies daily to support 46 regional posts. There was also an arsenal on the base which could have also been seen as a separate entity as it had its own commander and staff. In addition, the base hospital provided the best medical care for hundreds of miles around. Fort Union served as the jumping-off point for Union forces on their way to fight at Glorieta Pass, the last Civil War battle fought in New Mexico. After the Civil War, African-American soldiers with the 57th U.S. Colored Infantry arrived at Fort Union and later the 9th U.S. Cavalry, remembered today as the Buffalo Soldiers, would join them. When trains started rumbling across the country at the end of the 19th century, Fort Union became obsolete and was decommissioned in 1891. The last soldiers left on May 15th of that year. In 1954, it became Fort Union National Monument and its history is now interpreted by the National Park Service.
Most of the fort was built of adobe which, without regular maintenance, will melt back into the desert. Some exceptions were the stone jail and the brick chimneys which provide a glimpse into what Fort Union once was. This park site doesn’t get many visitors, but it’s a fascinating place to learn about the Santa Fe Trail and early American history in the New Mexico Territory. I hope you enjoy these photos from fascinating Fort Union National Monument.
“The Original Las Vegas” was founded along the Galinas River in 1835 in the midst of Mexican rule in the area and quickly grew as a popular stop on the Santa Fe Trail. It was on the Plaza in Las Vegas where Stephen Watts Kearny claimed New Mexico for the United States during the Mexican-American War in 1846. In 1879, the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad came to Las Vegas and the town quickly grew into one of the largest in the region. The New Mexico Normal School (now Highlands University) was established in 1893 and Fred Harvey built the Castañeda Hotel in 1898 as part of his hospitality empire in the southwest. Las Vegas hosted Teddy Roosevelt’s Rough Riders’ first reunion in 1899, a tradition that continued for many years. In more recent years, Las Vegas has been the filming location for many movies including No Country For Old Men, Wyatt Earp (with Kevin Costner), and perhaps most notably for me, Red Dawn where it served as the fictional town of Calamut (the massive “Calamut Says Howdy” mural is still a prominent feature downtown). I found Las Vegas to be a quiet, charming University town with some spectacular architecture, fascinating history and friendly people. It may be the “other Las Vegas”, but it’s a town not to be missed on your travels in New Mexico. I hope you enjoy these photos from wonderful Las Vegas, New Mexico.
Native Americans mined turquoise in the hills which now surround the tiny town of Cerillos. In more recent times, miners have also found gold, silver, copper, lead and coal in the area. An early Spanish explorer commented on the mineral wealth in these “little hills”, which gave the town its name. While all of the things that are mined in the area are valuable, it was the 1879 discovery of gold which really put Cerillos on the map. The railroad came through the following year and the town boomed. The town’s population grew to over 3,000 and it supported 21 saloons, 4 hotels, 3 churches, an opera house and several newspapers. At one point, Cerillos was even in consideration to be the capital of New Mexico and was visited by Teddy Roosevelt. With every boom comes a bust and by 1930 most of the big mines had closed, although turquoise is still mined nearby and is considered some of the finest in the country. The dirt roads and old buildings of Cerillos have made it a great Western filming location with Walt Disney's Nine Lives of Elfego Baca and Young Guns being two of Cerillos’ most famous productions. I’ve probably seen Young Guns several dozen times, so Cerillos felt familiar as I walked the streets and when I saw the faded Murphy-Dolan Store sign on the side of the old Wortley Hotel it really made me smile. Cerillos is a great little turn-off from the Turquoise Trail Scenic Byway which connects Albuquerque and Santa Fe and I definitely enjoyed my visit. I hope you enjoy these photos from the old mining town of Cerillos.
Native Americans have been passing through the area we now call the Salinas Valley for thousands of years. As agricultural techniques developed, hunter-gatherer societies began to settle down, plant crops and build permanent communities. The communities which grew in the Salinas Valley combined the traditions of the people we call Mogollon with those of the Ancestral Puebloans. They traded with other Puebloan groups to the west and with the Plains Indians to their east.
When the Spanish arrived in 1540, Coronado was searching for the 7 Lost Cities of Gold. He never found gold, but found abundant salt deposits in these mountains which is where they get their name (“salinas” means “salt” in Spanish). While the treasure seekers were met with disappointment, the Franciscan priests who accompanied them found whole towns of souls they believed needed saving. They took up residence in these remote pueblos and oversaw the construction of massive churches. They brought with them items which changed these societies for the better like wheat, fruit, cattle, goats and sheep. They also brought disease and demands for the Native people to give up their rituals and traditions. Some of these pueblos contain kivas, the underground centers of Pueblo communities and religion which point to some level of compromise, since later missions had kivas filled in and destroyed. Spanish priests and governors were often in disagreement over how to treat the Puebloan people, and cultural conflicts would often erupt…
In 1598, Juan de Oñate y Salazar was on a conquest to colonize Nuevo Mexico for Spain. Traveling north of El Camino Real, his caravan had just passed through the dreaded 90 mile stretch known as the Journada del Muerto or “Journey of the Dead Man” when they encountered the Piro people of the Tempana Pueblo. These people offered the party food and water and Oñate called the place “Socorro” meaning succor or aid. In 1626, the Spanish built a mission church nearby and christened it Nuestra Señora del Perpetuo Socorro or Our Lady of Perpetual Succor. The mission was abandoned and destroyed during the Pueblo Revolt of 1680 and wouldn’t be resettled until 1815. A beautiful new church was built and named after San Miguel.
I came to Socorro because it was where I was when I ran out of steam for the day. It was on my radar, but I didn’t know if I would have time to stop. I’m sure glad I did. There are so many wonderful historic buildings around town, and the evening was absolutely perfect for photography. I enjoyed a nice long walk around downtown and then settled into the mining-era Capitol Bar for a couple of their house-brewed beers. Then I ventured out to El Camino Restaurant and Lounge, a holdover from another time. Both the restaurant and the lounge are worth visiting for the ambiance alone. It snowed overnight and while there wasn’t much on the ground, the mountains had a lovely dusting. I happily snapped a few more shots with the snow before hitting the road. Socorro is definitely worth a stop on your way through New Mexico and I hope you enjoy these photos from my brief time in this wonderful little town.
