Every once in a while I drive into a town which is just too nice to leave. I pulled into MacKay, Idaho in the early afternoon with the plan to hop out and stretch my legs. , maybe take a few photos and then keep going. I found MacKay to be a cute town with some great historic buildings, all surrounded by the majestic peaks of the Lost River Range. With snow-covered mountains in every direction, I decided to stay for a while. I’m really glad I did, especially since it was a near-perfect, cool, sunny spring day.
MacKay was founded as a company town for the White Knob Mining Company in 1801 and named for the company’s owner John William Mackay. While the mines above Mackay closed down many years ago, MacKay has held on, bolstered by the agricultural businesses that have grown up in the surrounding area. I loved some of their historic buildings in town, especially the Clock Cigar Company which has been restored to show some of the businesses which have come and gone in the building over the years. While the original post clock out front has long since disappeared, the town had a replica made to the exact specifications and it looks great. I also enjoyed the L7 Bar and Grill which was the friendliest place I’ve stopped in a long time. I hope you enjoy these photos from tiny MacKay, Idaho, small town charm in the Lost River Valley.
Hello Everyone!
It has not been the best week out here on the road, but that doesn’t mean I’m complaining because it also could have been significantly worse. I’ve spent most of the week in limbo, waiting for things that were out of my control. I was in tiny Challis, Idaho for five days, waiting for some unexpected work on my van to get done. The rest of the week I’ve been just up the road from Challis in Stanley, waiting and hoping for the weather to clear. I’m very grateful to have had two excellent mechanics, John and Scott, working on Shadow Catcher. During my time in their shop I not only came to trust them with my van, but also to consider them my friends. I spend most of my time on the road drifting in and out of towns across the country, playing the familiar-to-me role of The Stranger. This week was different because it’s hard to stay a stranger in a town of a thousand people for very long. When I finally got off and running again I drove up into the mountains and straight back into winter. I had to break out all of my winter clothes again and find places to hang out and avoid the snow. When the clouds finally lifted, the Sawtooth Mountains showed themselves and they are spectacular and were well worth the wait. And now I’m finishing off my week here in Twin Falls in the rain. I’ve only gone about 200 miles this week which has definitely saved me on gas, but I’m hoping that now I can keep moving for a while as I get back into my more regular routine.
As I’ve just mentioned, my week got off to a rough start. When I pulled into Challis to finish up this post last week, I turned down my radio and heard a terrible sound coming from my rear wheels. I decided to park and get my work done and give it a while to fix itself, which would have been amazing if it had worked. It, of course, did not. Challis is a small town and the closest thing I could find to a mechanic on my phone was a tire place just on the edge of town. I went and talked to them and they said they didn’t really do much beyond tires and oil changes and pointed me to another garage behind the Napa Auto Parts up the road. This was definitely a garage, but with no sign, no online presence or reviews, no nothing. I went in and talked to Scott and he said he would take a look at it in the morning. I didn’t really love the situation, but I was stuck and grateful he would have a look and see what he could do. Worst case scenario, I could call AAA and get a tow up to Salmon which has a couple of mechanics. I found a parking spot nearby and then took a nice, long walk around Challis. It’s clearly in the midst of an old mining region with mining still being the main industry today. Challis was founded way back in 1876 as a supply center for the different mining districts in the area, including the Lucky Boy, Custer, Sunbeam and Charles Dickens mines, and continues to be the main town and county seat for the region. After having a good look around, I stopped into Bux’s Place, a classic, old-school, taxidermy-and-pool-tables kind of bar on the main street. It was smoky, but nice enough for a beer. Then I went across the street to Shyla’s Hideaway which had less atmosphere, but also less smoke and they served food. Shyla’s would be my go-to spot for the rest of the week. I had a tasty sandwich and chatted with the bartender who told me that Scott was a good mechanic and a decent person which left me feeling a little better about the whole situation.
Pocatello, Idaho is a wonderful place to be. It’s a modern city and home to Idaho State University, but it maintains its historic charm and classic American downtown vibes. Originally part of the seasonal migration routes of the Bannock and Shoshone tribes, the city takes its name from Shoshone Chief Pocatello.
American explorers Meriwether Lewis and William Clark passed through the region on their Corps of Discovery expedition in 1805. A businessman from Massachusetts named Nathaniel Jarvis Wyeth came west in the 1830s to try to establish himself in the fur trade and set up Fort Hall as a trading post. Unable to compete with the Hudson’s Bay Company, he sold Fort Hall to them a few years later. Several years down the line, the fort would be a major stop on the Oregon Trail as emigrants made their way west across the country. When gold was discovered in 1860, the area experienced a minor rush and people began to settle in the beautiful Portneuf Valley. But more than anything, it was the coming of the train that would build the city of Pocatello. The area became a rest stop on the Utah and Northern Railroad and several years later the Oregon Short Line came to town, creating a junction and transfer point referred to as “Pocatello’s Junction”. In 1888, an executive order purchased land for a townsite from the Fort Hall Shoshone and Bannock Reservation and the city was incorporated the following year. Because of the train junction, Pocatello was known as “The Gateway to the Northwest”, or simply “Gate City” for short.
I had a great stay in Pocatello, enjoying their monthly art walk, a performance at the Palace Theatre and some live music in the downtown bars. The county history museum had some neat artifacts and I particularly enjoyed visiting the Shoshone Bannock Cultural Museum in nearby Fort Hall. Pocatello is a friendly city with a cool vibe and I will definitely be returning in the future. I hope you enjoy these photos from Pocatello, Idaho’s Gate City.
Montpelier, Idaho is famous for two things: bank robbers and bears. On August 13th, 1896, Butch Cassidy and several members of his Wild Bunch strolled into the Bank of Montpelier and strolled out with a little over $16,500 ($640,000 in today’s money). As they rode off into the sunset, the local sheriff took off after them on his bicycle. He made a valiant effort but didn’t stand a chance. While Butch Cassidy was never caught, a local man named Robert Meeks, who helped in this escapade which was likely his first and only bank robbery, was eventually tracked down and convicted to 35 years in the state penitentiary.
As the dust was finally settling from the bank robbery, a different kind of thief was just starting his long and storied career. Old Ephraim was a massive grizzly who reeked havoc on the region for over a decade.. He was also called Old Three Toes because of a deformity on his back foot which made him easily identifiable, In August of 1923, a local rancher named Frank Clark finally tracked down Old Ephraim and caught him in a trap. It took seven bullets to bring down the massive bear. You can visit the grave of Old Ephraim in Utah’s Logan Canyon and you can see his skull at Utah State University, but his legend is alive and well in Montpelier where a giant statue stands as a memorial to his exploits.
Those two stories make Montpelier an exciting place to visit. The town was once called Clover Creek and was a stop on the Oregon Trail. The name was changed to Montpelier by Mormon Prophet Brigham Young in honor of the capital city of his home state of Vermont. The Oregon Short Line Railroad reached Montpelier in 1882 which would allow the town to grow more rapidly. Montpelier would serve as the home terminal for these trains until 1972. It’s still a rail town today with plenty of trains passing through every day. Montpelier is also home to the National Oregon and California Trail Center, which was sadly closed during my visit. And you can also visit the Bank of Montpelier which is still standing in town and still has the original teller windows and vault from when Butch Cassidy last saw it in 1896. The bank is a museum now which is open sporadically and is, at this writing, for sale. I hope you enjoy these photos from the wonderful small town of Montpelier, Idaho - it is actually more than bank robbers and bears, but those make the town great.
Hello Everyone!
I’m back in the mountains and it is wonderful to be here. I know I was in the mountains in northern Utah, but the Idaho mountains feel different somehow. Or maybe Idaho towns feel more like mountain towns and that’s what’s different. I don’t know, but it’s nice to be here and to be enjoying cool, sunny days and incredible views. My first full week in Idaho has been a good one. I really enjoyed my time in Pocatello and have made my way north and then west from there and I am writing to you today from the little town of Challis, the largest town in Custer County with a population of just over a thousand people. The Salmon River is nearby and the town is surrounded by mountains. I’ll bet it’s cold and very isolated here in the winter, but it sure is nice to be here in the spring.
It was late when I finished up this post last week and I am always grateful for the libraries that stay open until 9pm. It was cold and raining out so I grabbed a quick beer up the road and then tucked into my van for the night. The rain wasn’t too bad, but the wind really picked up overnight and blew through all of the next day with gusts up over 50mph on a regular basis. According to the locals, the wind is quite common around here and we were lucky the rain kept the dust down.
Pulling into tiny Helper, Utah is like stepping back in time. Whatever way you come into town, you are likely to drive past one of their amazingly preserved vintage gas stations on your way in. These are perfect inside and out and you should definitely stop to check them out. When you pull onto Main Street, you will definitely be impressed by how well they have kept up their historic district and it feels like you are on a movie set somewhere. The only other place I have visited that had the same feel was Lowell, Arizona, but Helper feels more alive and less like a ghost town.
Located in Carbon County, this is definitely coal country, but the town developed around the railroad when the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad (D&RGW) came through in 1881. The town gets its name because the trains needed an extra push to get them over the next hill, so an extra engine, or “helper” was attached. Between the mines and the railroad, Helper grew to a population of around 20,000 people who came to work in these industries from all over the world. The mines and the railroad still exist in the area, but increased mechanization has decreased the need for workers and the population has dropped by 90%. That said, the people who have remained decided to do what they could to preserve the history of the town and have worked hard to create the Helper you’ll find there today.
I was thrilled to find the Matt Warner Lodge of E Clampus Vitus while I was there. ECV is the historic organization I’ve been a part of for the last 20 years or so, but this is the only Lodge in all of Utah. They are working hard to preserve the history of the area while helping run many of the community’s events like the Easter egg hunt, which they were all excited about while I was there. It was nice to have some company for a change, and the Brothers filled me in on a lot of the local history. Their Lodge is located in the historic Carbon Hotel which was the last functioning brothel in Helper and was open into the 1970s. ECV historic plaques can be found throughout Helper and in many nearby towns and help tell the story of the communities which have long since faded into the past.
If you’re ever on your way to Salt Lake City from Moab or Grand Junction, definitely be sure to stop in Helper, you’ll be glad you did. I hope you enjoy these photos from Helper which is definitely Utah’s cutest small town.
I had a blast in Vernal, Utah - a fun little city of about 10,000 people in the far east of the Beehive State. Fremont Indians once lived in the area and were later followed by Utes who still live there today. When the Mormons came to Utah, they saw no reason to settle in the region despite the Green River flowing nearby. In fact, settlers didn’t come to what is now Vernal until 1879. The railroad came through in 1906 and Vernal was incorporated and began to grow. Just three years later, paleontologist Earl Douglass discovered a massive deposit of dinosaur bones and fossils just east of Vernal and it would be designated as Dinosaur National Monument in 1915. Oil and mineral extraction are probably the biggest drivers of Vernal’s economy, but dinosaur tourism certainly plays a significant role, as you can tell from the photos in this post.
I was only planning on staying a short while in Vernal, but ended up there for several days. I enjoyed checking out the dinosaur quarry at the National Monument, and the Field House Museum in the middle of town. The recreation center was top-notch and I even got to catch some bull riding while I was there. Mostly, it’s just fun town with a good feeling to it and friendly people at every stop. That and the sunsets were hard to beat. I hadn’t been to Vernal in many years and I was glad I made the trek to get there. I hope you enjoy these photos from Vernal, definitely a fun town in the heart of dinosaur country.
Boulder City, Nevada was founded in 1931 by the United States Bureau of Reclamation to house workers who were there to construct the Boulder Dam (which was renamed the Hoover Dam in 1947). Originally intended to house 5,000 workers for several years while the dam was being built, the town was thoughtfully laid out with plenty of parks and recreation opportunities and thus earned the early nickname of “Nevada’s Garden City”. Founded during prohibition and with the goal of having productive workers, alcohol was prohibited in Boulder City until 1969 and gambling has never been allowed within the city limits making it look and feel different from any other town I visited during my time in Nevada. The federal government maintained control of Boulder City until 1959 when the town was finally incorporated and the citizens elected their first mayor. Boulder City is a pleasant little community which I really enjoyed. The people were friendly and there were some great bars and restaurants and a surprising amount of live music on offer. I also loved all of the public art around town, especially the statues dedicated to the regular folks who made up the community in the early days. There’s a statue of a woman hanging laundry, one of a man with a shovel and another of the janitor resupplying toilet paper to the public restrooms (an unsung hero if ever there was one). All of the statues in town were tastefully decorated for the upcoming Valentine’s Day during my visit which put a smile on my face. I had a great stay in Boulder City which may be only 45 minutes from downtown Las Vegas, but feels a world apart. I hope you enjoy these photos from Boulder City - The Town that Built the Hoover Dam.
I absolutely loved visiting this old ghost town just south of Nelson, Nevada. It’s located near the site of the old Techatticup Mine in the heart of El Dorado Canyon. Gold and Silver were discovered in El Dorado Canyon in 1859 and a huge population influx soon followed. It grew to be a rough and sinister town and was named for Charles Nelson, a mining director who was killed in his home. Because of its proximity to the Colorado River, it was relatively easy to get people and supplies in and out when compared to other mine locations. The mines in the area were active until 1945, producing several million dollars worth of minerals. Today, the town is privately owned and open to visitors during daylight hours. It’s clearly staged for photography but that didn’t make me love it any less. It seems as though a lot of weddings are held on the property as well. I hope you enjoy these photos from the colorful ghost town of Nelson, Nevada deep in the heart of El Dorado Canyon.
Silver was found in the hills surrounding what is now Pioche in the early 1860s, but conflict with the local Indian bands led the area to be abandoned soon thereafter. In 1868, San Francisco based land speculator François Louis Alfred Pioche purchased the mining claims and the surrounding area and founded a town he humbly named after himself. Within two years hundreds of miners had come to the mines of Pioche to find work, and it quickly gained a reputation as one of the roughest towns in the west. Signs around town will tell you that 72 men were killed in Pioche before the first citizen died of natural causes. Many of these men were buried in a “Boot Hill” cemetery outside of town. In 1872, Pioche became the county seat of the newly formed Lincoln County and a courthouse was commissioned for $88,000. Bonds were issued to cover the costs and then more bonds were issued to pay back the original bonds. This cycle continued until the state of Nevada devised a repayment plan in 1907 to help pay off the debt. The courthouse was finally paid off in 1938 to the tune of a million dollars, two years after the building was condemned. Next door to the courthouse is the old Mountain View Hotel, where Herbert Hoover apparently stayed when he visited Pioche. The old opera house and the 1937 Gem Theater are other distinct local landmarks. I loved my time in Pioche. In addition to these historic sites, the aerial tramway is such an eye-catching feature for the old mining town. I had a great breakfast with the locals at the counter of the Silver Café, and enjoyed a few beers at The Alamo Club and the Overland Saloon which also hosted a rousing round of Bingo when I was in town. I also absolutely loved their historic marker signs, each of which was topped with a unique design referencing the specific location (see some great examples below). To top it all off, Pioche has a free RV park for visitors to stay in while visiting. I had never heard of Pioche when I passed through, but I’m sure glad I stopped. This was my first visit but it won’t be my last. I hope you enjoy these photos from the old mining town of Pioche, Nevada - a once wild place in the heart of Lincoln County.
How can you not go visit a place with the motto “The Town That Refused to Die”? Ione has been on my list for quite some time and I’m glad I finally got there. It adds a little extra to the long detour to Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park which is just minutes up the road. Ione was founded after a silver strike in the area in 1863. Ione took it’s name from a California mining town and would be named the county seat of the newly created Nye County in 1864. The town’s population would peak at about 600 people, but many would leave when a strike was made in nearby Belmont. Belmont would become the county seat in 1867. Ione would have another small boom in 1897 when a new stamp mill was built and again in 1912 when cinnabar (an ore refined into elemental mercury) was discovered in the area. When that played out in the 1930s, the town’s population would dip to around 40. The post office closed in 1959 and yet the town persisted. There isn’t much to Ione these days - a boarded up saloon and a few old stores and mining era buildings. But there are some newer houses around as well and a population of 41 people who must really like to get away from it all. This is an end-of-the-road town, but one worth wandering through if you’re ever in the area. I hope you enjoy these photos from Ione, Nevada - The Town That Refused to Die.
The Lincoln Highway was the original road-tripping route across the country. Dedicated on Halloween, 1913, the Lincoln Highway stretched 3,389 miles from Times Square in New York City to Lincoln Square in San Francisco. It was really the first transcontinental route designed specifically for automobiles and became known as The Main Street Across America. The stretch of the Lincoln Highway that crossed Nevada was planned along a well-trodden path. This route had previously served as a stagecoach route, the main trail for the Pony Express and the transcontinental telegraph also ran along this path. Many years after the highway was built, in 1986, Life magazine called this stretch of road across Nevada “The Loneliest Road in America”, and that wasn’t meant as a compliment. Nevadans, however, loved it and set out to make it a state scenic byway, erecting signs, creating a passport and marketing it to outsiders as The Loneliest Road. It connects fascinating old mining towns like Austin, Ely and Eureka and passes by old Pony Express stations, vast expanses of desert and the ruins of Fort Churchill (now a state park). I’ve made this run across Nevada several times and always really enjoyed it. There’s a lot of history out there and some great bars along the way as well. I hope you enjoy these photos from my time traveling down Nevada’s section of Route 50, The Loneliest Road in America.
