Mount Angel got its start as Roy, Oregon back in 1850. Thirty years later, Reverend Adelhelm Odermatt arrived with a group of Benedictine monks from Engelberg, Switzerland. Together, they established an abbey, a church and a school and were soon joined by a group of settlers from Bavaria. When a post office was established, they took the name “Mount Angel” which is the English translation of the town Engleberg. This sleepy little town of about 4,000 people grows a hundredfold each fall as tourists from around the world arrive for their annual Oktoberfest celebration. Mount Angel built their glockenspiel in 2006 and it is apparently the largest in the United States. It was a joy to watch when it came to life and on a quiet Sunday afternoon, I was the only one there to see it. There are some great old buildings and some beautiful cast iron signs and signposts around town which I have to believe came from the local Windischar's General Blacksmith Shop. I especially enjoyed the beer at the Benedictine Monastery’s wonderfully named St. Michael Taproom and will have to visit the monastery itself on my next visit. I definitely enjoyed wandering the streets of this little Bavarian town in the heart of the Willamette Valley and would absolutely recommend a stop to anyone passing through the area.. And if you’re there in September, you’ll be in for a real treat as their Oktoberfest looks like a heck of a good time. I hope you enjoy these photos from quaint and picturesque Mount Angel Oregon, the Willamette Valley’s Little Bavaria. Prost!
Driving into historic Brownsville, Oregon put a huge smile on my face. I first saw the movie Stand By Me as a teenager, and I had read the Stephen King novella The Body even earlier. This coming-of-age story of four boys navigating adolescence in the small town of Castle Rock (Maine in the novella, Oregon in the movie) really moved me. I’ve seen it dozens of times in the intervening years and Brownsville was where it was filmed. The whole town felt so familiar to me and it really is a quintessential small town and the perfect location for the movie to have been filmed in. I loved just walking the streets and taking it all in and I had a beautiful day to be there. I went to Pioneer Park and watched some young people playing baseball which was fun (the park was the scene of the pie-eating contest in the film with locals used as the extras in the scene). I enjoyed a great lunch at Randy’s and dinner at the Brownsville Tavern and just really enjoyed my visit. I even sat in my van and watched Stand By Me while I was there. I’m not the only person who visits Brownsville because I’m a fan of a 40 year old movie. They even have an annual festival to remember and celebrate the film. If you’re ever cruising through Linn County, pop in and have a look around. It’s a wonderful town full of wonderful people and I’m sure they’ll be glad to have you. Enjoy these photos from Brownsville, Oregon which will always be Castle Rock to me.
Pulling through Oakland, Oregon on an overcast spring morning, I caught a glimpse of a great, old Bull Durham Tobacco ghost sign next to a vacant lot. Turning onto Locust Street so I could hop out and take a photo of the sign, I found myself in the middle of a delightful historic district. Back in 1846 as westbound emigrants were making their way down the Oregon Trail, the last obstacle they faced was one of their greatest: navigating the treacherous Columbia River Gorge. A party led by Scott Applegate pioneered a cutoff from the trail to avoid the river and the Applegate Trail was born. Following this trail, the Campbell and Cornwall families ran into winter conditions before reaching the Willamette Valley and ended up settling right where they were. Their settlement would eventually grow into the town of Oakland. When the railroad arrived in 1872, Oakland would grow into a transportation hub. Stearns Hardware opened in 1887 and has been going ever since. Over 80 of the buildings in town were built between 1852 and 1890 which led to Oakland being the first city placed on Oregon’s historic register back in 1968. I didn’t stay in Oakland long, but it really made an impression and I hope to return in the future. For a small town, it sure seemed to have a lot to offer. I hope you enjoy these photos from historic Oakland, Oregon.
I was very excited to have a whole day to check out some of the many waterfalls flowing into the North Umpqua River as I made my way down Route 4 from Crater Lake to Roseberg. I love everything about waterfalls - from the spray on my face to the sound they make as they roar over the rocks. They are also among my favorite things to photograph as they really are magical, especially with a nice long exposure. The day I made this journey I visited six waterfalls: Clearwater Falls, Whitehorse Falls, Watson Falls, Toketee Falls, Fall Creek Falls and Susan Creek Falls, Toketee was probably the most stunning of the six because of its setting, but Fall Creek Falls sure did take a good photo. I also really loved Whitehorse Falls and I think my favorite photo is the one I saved for last. The lush green surroundings of Clearwater Falls made me hang around for a while, and the sheer drop of Watson Falls was simply awesome. Susan Creek Falls was in a great setting, too and it was truly stunning. It’s hard to have a bad day when you’re out chasing waterfalls, and I hope you enjoy these photos from the spectacular Umpqua Canyon.
I had planned on spending an hour or two in tiny Challis, Idaho, but ended up there for the better part of the week. My van had a bearing act up on the way into town which is never a good feeling, but thanks to good luck and good karma, I found two excellent mechanics to get us back on the road. John and Scott took good care of my van and became friends along the way, but the age of my van and the remoteness of Challis meant we had to wait a few days for parts to come in. I passed much of that time at the town’s wonderful library, reading in the park or hanging out at Shyla’s Hideaway or Bux’s across the street. All of these things were a blessing and I’m truly grateful to have landed in such a pleasant little town during a time of distress.
The land on which Challis would come to occupy was once the seasonal hunting ground of Shoshone and Nez Perce Indians. Fur traders came through in the early 19th century looking for beaver, and the ranchers that still occupy the area would follow. But, like so much of the west, it was a gold strike that caused the area to really take off. Gold was discovered in 1873 on the Yankee Fork of the Salmon River and miners rushed in from all corners of the globe, inevitably followed by saloonkeepers, shop owners and prostitutes who relied on the miners’ trade. Challis was founded in 1878 and named after the man who surveyed the townsite. It became a central supply town for the surrounding mines, a role it still fills today. With a population of just over a thousand people, Challis is the largest town and the county seat of Custer County. I wish I had taken more photos while I was there as it is quite a scenic town, but I had a lot on my mind and wasn’t in the mood. I did take some though, and I hope you enjoy these photos of Challis, the gateway to the Yankee Fork.
Nine Mile Canyon as often been called “The World’s Longest Art Gallery”. Despite its name, the canyon stretched 46 miles through east central Utah and has as many as 10,000 petroglyphs along its course. This route has been traveled for thousands of years, undoubtedly beginning as a wildlife trail which followed the easiest path through the mountains. It was used by a people we refer to as the Fremont People for many hundreds of years and they are responsible for most of the petroglyphs chipped into the canyon walls. Later, Ute Indians made their way through the canyon and made their own carvings, including those of horses and bison. Fur trappers and settlers followed the old Indian trails. The Nine Mile Canyon Road was originally built by the Black Buffalo Soldiers of the Ninth Cavalry to connect old Fort Duchesne to the railroad at Price. Once the road was complete, stagecoaches started using the canyon to deliver mail and freight and settlements began to spring up. Later, mining and natural gas extraction began in Nine Mile Canyon and continues today. Nobody knows how 46 mile long Nine Mile Canyon was named. Many people believe that explorer John Wesley Powell named it because the name first appears in his journals, but Powell was pretty good at naming things so I’m not buying that explanation. Also, I love a good mystery and don’t mind when one goes unsolved.
I started my drive from Wellington, just south of Price. The road is paved all the way to the Great Hunt Panel (and beyond if you continue up the side canyon), but has a stretch of decently maintained gravel road if you want to continue through to Myton (which I did). I loved seeing so many wonderful petroglyphs in such a small area and I know I only scratched the surface (pun intended) of what was out there. My favorite is the first one pictured below: Coyote Placing the Stars. I also loved the Owl Panel and the Juggling Man and of course the Great Hunt which is one of Utah’s most famous panels. There were a lot of old homesteads along the way and even an old townsite once called Harper but abandoned over a hundred years ago. There are some beautiful new homes out there as well and aside from the mining trucks rumbling past I imagine it’s pretty quiet out there most of the time. I really enjoyed my day out in Nine Mile Canyon and I hope you enjoy these photos I took along the way.
Natural Bridges National Monument became Utah’s first National Monument in 1908. It protects three impressive natural bridges situated in White and Armstrong Canyons in the southeast part of the state. A natural bridge is geologically different from an arch in that a bridge is formed by running water whereas an arch is not. Utah has quite a few of both.
The human history of this area stretches back at least 9,000 years as archaeologists have found tools and other evidence dating to that time. Ruins in the park show that the Ancestral Puebloans inhabited the area from around 700AD to around 1270AD. In more recent times, Paiute and Navajo people have made their homes in and around these canyons. in 1883, a man named Chris Hite wandered up White Canyon in search of gold and brought word of these magnificent natural bridges to the outside world. National Geographic did a story on the bridges in 1904 and in 1908 Theodore Roosevelt designated them a part of a new National Monument. Very few visitors came in the early years of the park as it was a three day horseback ride from the nearest town. A uranium boom in the 1950s brought roads to the area and those roads were paved in 1976, allowing easier access to see the bridges.
Natural Bridges National Monument is a beautiful place. It’s quiet and remote and definitely off the beaten path. Unfortunately, I imagine most people visit on their way between one place and the next and only stop at the overlooks to get a look at the bridges. To really appreciate them, you need to hike down into the canyon and get a closer look. The trail to Sipapu Bridge is an adventure in its own right, descending several ladders on the way to the canyon floor. Getting down to Kachina and Owachomo Bridges is easier, and I even enjoyed hiking between these two along the canyon bottom. Like most of the Desert Southwest, the natural bridges are at their best at the edges of the day when the sun is low and the sandstone lights up. I hope you enjoy these photos from beautiful Natural Bridges National Monument, well worth the detour if you’re ever in the area.
I absolutely loved visiting this old ghost town just south of Nelson, Nevada. It’s located near the site of the old Techatticup Mine in the heart of El Dorado Canyon. Gold and Silver were discovered in El Dorado Canyon in 1859 and a huge population influx soon followed. It grew to be a rough and sinister town and was named for Charles Nelson, a mining director who was killed in his home. Because of its proximity to the Colorado River, it was relatively easy to get people and supplies in and out when compared to other mine locations. The mines in the area were active until 1945, producing several million dollars worth of minerals. Today, the town is privately owned and open to visitors during daylight hours. It’s clearly staged for photography but that didn’t make me love it any less. It seems as though a lot of weddings are held on the property as well. I hope you enjoy these photos from the colorful ghost town of Nelson, Nevada deep in the heart of El Dorado Canyon.
Silver was found in the hills surrounding what is now Pioche in the early 1860s, but conflict with the local Indian bands led the area to be abandoned soon thereafter. In 1868, San Francisco based land speculator François Louis Alfred Pioche purchased the mining claims and the surrounding area and founded a town he humbly named after himself. Within two years hundreds of miners had come to the mines of Pioche to find work, and it quickly gained a reputation as one of the roughest towns in the west. Signs around town will tell you that 72 men were killed in Pioche before the first citizen died of natural causes. Many of these men were buried in a “Boot Hill” cemetery outside of town. In 1872, Pioche became the county seat of the newly formed Lincoln County and a courthouse was commissioned for $88,000. Bonds were issued to cover the costs and then more bonds were issued to pay back the original bonds. This cycle continued until the state of Nevada devised a repayment plan in 1907 to help pay off the debt. The courthouse was finally paid off in 1938 to the tune of a million dollars, two years after the building was condemned. Next door to the courthouse is the old Mountain View Hotel, where Herbert Hoover apparently stayed when he visited Pioche. The old opera house and the 1937 Gem Theater are other distinct local landmarks. I loved my time in Pioche. In addition to these historic sites, the aerial tramway is such an eye-catching feature for the old mining town. I had a great breakfast with the locals at the counter of the Silver Café, and enjoyed a few beers at The Alamo Club and the Overland Saloon which also hosted a rousing round of Bingo when I was in town. I also absolutely loved their historic marker signs, each of which was topped with a unique design referencing the specific location (see some great examples below). To top it all off, Pioche has a free RV park for visitors to stay in while visiting. I had never heard of Pioche when I passed through, but I’m sure glad I stopped. This was my first visit but it won’t be my last. I hope you enjoy these photos from the old mining town of Pioche, Nevada - a once wild place in the heart of Lincoln County.
How can you not go visit a place with the motto “The Town That Refused to Die”? Ione has been on my list for quite some time and I’m glad I finally got there. It adds a little extra to the long detour to Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park which is just minutes up the road. Ione was founded after a silver strike in the area in 1863. Ione took it’s name from a California mining town and would be named the county seat of the newly created Nye County in 1864. The town’s population would peak at about 600 people, but many would leave when a strike was made in nearby Belmont. Belmont would become the county seat in 1867. Ione would have another small boom in 1897 when a new stamp mill was built and again in 1912 when cinnabar (an ore refined into elemental mercury) was discovered in the area. When that played out in the 1930s, the town’s population would dip to around 40. The post office closed in 1959 and yet the town persisted. There isn’t much to Ione these days - a boarded up saloon and a few old stores and mining era buildings. But there are some newer houses around as well and a population of 41 people who must really like to get away from it all. This is an end-of-the-road town, but one worth wandering through if you’re ever in the area. I hope you enjoy these photos from Ione, Nevada - The Town That Refused to Die.
The Lincoln Highway was the original road-tripping route across the country. Dedicated on Halloween, 1913, the Lincoln Highway stretched 3,389 miles from Times Square in New York City to Lincoln Square in San Francisco. It was really the first transcontinental route designed specifically for automobiles and became known as The Main Street Across America. The stretch of the Lincoln Highway that crossed Nevada was planned along a well-trodden path. This route had previously served as a stagecoach route, the main trail for the Pony Express and the transcontinental telegraph also ran along this path. Many years after the highway was built, in 1986, Life magazine called this stretch of road across Nevada “The Loneliest Road in America”, and that wasn’t meant as a compliment. Nevadans, however, loved it and set out to make it a state scenic byway, erecting signs, creating a passport and marketing it to outsiders as The Loneliest Road. It connects fascinating old mining towns like Austin, Ely and Eureka and passes by old Pony Express stations, vast expanses of desert and the ruins of Fort Churchill (now a state park). I’ve made this run across Nevada several times and always really enjoyed it. There’s a lot of history out there and some great bars along the way as well. I hope you enjoy these photos from my time traveling down Nevada’s section of Route 50, The Loneliest Road in America.
Hello Everyone! This week brought me down the east side of the great state of Nevada as I traveled from the old railroad town of Ely to fabulous Las Vegas. It’s another pretty desolate run with lots of wide open, beautiful desert to see. Nevada Route 93 is a great road and an easy one to cruise down with the windows down and the radio up. Tumbleweed blew across the road on more than one occasion. I also saw both a coyote and a roadrunner speed across the highway in front of me, but if the coyote was chasing the roadrunner, he was several hours behind. Perhaps an Acme brand rocket might help him catch up. I did stop through some cool little towns along the way and hiked in three really nice state parks as well, which were all nice to break up the ride. As I’ve been making my way south, I’ve been reading Reno’s Big Gamble by Alicia Barber which is an interesting look at the history of “The Biggest Little City in the World”. Two passages really stuck out though and made me smile so I thought I’d share them with you here. The first talks about how Nevada is right in between the Sierra Nevada Mountains, arguably the most beautiful part of California, and the incredible and diverse landscapes of Western Utah, longtime home of the Mormon Church. That leaves Nevada stuck in the desert “east of Eden and west of Zion”. The second quote stated that Nevada was “only fit for lizards and blizzards”. Both gave me a good chuckle. Nevada is a wonderful place but it takes some time here to understand that and the wide-open desert can be as daunting as it is beautiful. It’s hard not to imagine the emigrant parties toting all of their possessions with them in an old wagon starting off across the great unknown. The distances are much greater than they appear and I can only imagine what went through their heads as they struggled across a few miles at a time. Thankfully I move along at a much quicker pace. All in all, it’s been another great week on the road.
