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Off The Beaten Path

Snapshots: Nelson - A Colorful Ghost Town in El Dorado Canyon

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Snapshots: Nelson - A Colorful Ghost Town in El Dorado Canyon

I absolutely loved visiting this old ghost town just south of Nelson, Nevada. It’s located near the site of the old Techatticup Mine in the heart of El Dorado Canyon. Gold and Silver were discovered in El Dorado Canyon in 1859 and a huge population influx soon followed. It grew to be a rough and sinister town and was named for Charles Nelson, a mining director who was killed in his home. Because of its proximity to the Colorado River, it was relatively easy to get people and supplies in and out when compared to other mine locations. The mines in the area were active until 1945, producing several million dollars worth of minerals. Today, the town is privately owned and open to visitors during daylight hours. It’s clearly staged for photography but that didn’t make me love it any less. It seems as though a lot of weddings are held on the property as well. I hope you enjoy these photos from the colorful ghost town of Nelson, Nevada deep in the heart of El Dorado Canyon.

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Snapshots: Pioche - Wild Times in Lincoln County

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Snapshots: Pioche - Wild Times in Lincoln County

Silver was found in the hills surrounding what is now Pioche in the early 1860s, but conflict with the local Indian bands led the area to be abandoned soon thereafter. In 1868, San Francisco based land speculator François Louis Alfred Pioche purchased the mining claims and the surrounding area and founded a town he humbly named after himself. Within two years hundreds of miners had come to the mines of Pioche to find work, and it quickly gained a reputation as one of the roughest towns in the west. Signs around town will tell you that 72 men were killed in Pioche before the first citizen died of natural causes. Many of these men were buried in a “Boot Hill” cemetery outside of town. In 1872, Pioche became the county seat of the newly formed Lincoln County and a courthouse was commissioned for $88,000. Bonds were issued to cover the costs and then more bonds were issued to pay back the original bonds. This cycle continued until the state of Nevada devised a repayment plan in 1907 to help pay off the debt. The courthouse was finally paid off in 1938 to the tune of a million dollars, two years after the building was condemned. Next door to the courthouse is the old Mountain View Hotel, where Herbert Hoover apparently stayed when he visited Pioche. The old opera house and the 1937 Gem Theater are other distinct local landmarks. I loved my time in Pioche. In addition to these historic sites, the aerial tramway is such an eye-catching feature for the old mining town. I had a great breakfast with the locals at the counter of the Silver Café, and enjoyed a few beers at The Alamo Club and the Overland Saloon which also hosted a rousing round of Bingo when I was in town. I also absolutely loved their historic marker signs, each of which was topped with a unique design referencing the specific location (see some great examples below). To top it all off, Pioche has a free RV park for visitors to stay in while visiting. I had never heard of Pioche when I passed through, but I’m sure glad I stopped. This was my first visit but it won’t be my last. I hope you enjoy these photos from the old mining town of Pioche, Nevada - a once wild place in the heart of Lincoln County.

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Snapshots: Ione - The Town That Refused to Die

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Snapshots: Ione - The Town That Refused to Die

How can you not go visit a place with the motto “The Town That Refused to Die”? Ione has been on my list for quite some time and I’m glad I finally got there. It adds a little extra to the long detour to Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park which is just minutes up the road. Ione was founded after a silver strike in the area in 1863. Ione took it’s name from a California mining town and would be named the county seat of the newly created Nye County in 1864. The town’s population would peak at about 600 people, but many would leave when a strike was made in nearby Belmont. Belmont would become the county seat in 1867. Ione would have another small boom in 1897 when a new stamp mill was built and again in 1912 when cinnabar (an ore refined into elemental mercury) was discovered in the area. When that played out in the 1930s, the town’s population would dip to around 40. The post office closed in 1959 and yet the town persisted. There isn’t much to Ione these days - a boarded up saloon and a few old stores and mining era buildings. But there are some newer houses around as well and a population of 41 people who must really like to get away from it all. This is an end-of-the-road town, but one worth wandering through if you’re ever in the area. I hope you enjoy these photos from Ione, Nevada - The Town That Refused to Die.

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Snapshots: Route 50 - The Loneliest Road in America

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Snapshots: Route 50 - The Loneliest Road in America

The Lincoln Highway was the original road-tripping route across the country. Dedicated on Halloween, 1913, the Lincoln Highway stretched 3,389 miles from Times Square in New York City to Lincoln Square in San Francisco. It was really the first transcontinental route designed specifically for automobiles and became known as The Main Street Across America. The stretch of the Lincoln Highway that crossed Nevada was planned along a well-trodden path. This route had previously served as a stagecoach route, the main trail for the Pony Express and the transcontinental telegraph also ran along this path. Many years after the highway was built, in 1986, Life magazine called this stretch of road across Nevada “The Loneliest Road in America”, and that wasn’t meant as a compliment. Nevadans, however, loved it and set out to make it a state scenic byway, erecting signs, creating a passport and marketing it to outsiders as The Loneliest Road. It connects fascinating old mining towns like Austin, Ely and Eureka and passes by old Pony Express stations, vast expanses of desert and the ruins of Fort Churchill (now a state park). I’ve made this run across Nevada several times and always really enjoyed it. There’s a lot of history out there and some great bars along the way as well. I hope you enjoy these photos from my time traveling down Nevada’s section of Route 50, The Loneliest Road in America.

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This Week on the Road - January 29th-February 4th

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This Week on the Road - January 29th-February 4th

Hello Everyone! This week brought me down the east side of the great state of Nevada as I traveled from the old railroad town of Ely to fabulous Las Vegas. It’s another pretty desolate run with lots of wide open, beautiful desert to see. Nevada Route 93 is a great road and an easy one to cruise down with the windows down and the radio up. Tumbleweed blew across the road on more than one occasion. I also saw both a coyote and a roadrunner speed across the highway in front of me, but if the coyote was chasing the roadrunner, he was several hours behind. Perhaps an Acme brand rocket might help him catch up. I did stop through some cool little towns along the way and hiked in three really nice state parks as well, which were all nice to break up the ride. As I’ve been making my way south, I’ve been reading Reno’s Big Gamble by Alicia Barber which is an interesting look at the history of “The Biggest Little City in the World”. Two passages really stuck out though and made me smile so I thought I’d share them with you here. The first talks about how Nevada is right in between the Sierra Nevada Mountains, arguably the most beautiful part of California, and the incredible and diverse landscapes of Western Utah, longtime home of the Mormon Church. That leaves Nevada stuck in the desert “east of Eden and west of Zion”. The second quote stated that Nevada was “only fit for lizards and blizzards”. Both gave me a good chuckle. Nevada is a wonderful place but it takes some time here to understand that and the wide-open desert can be as daunting as it is beautiful. It’s hard not to imagine the emigrant parties toting all of their possessions with them in an old wagon starting off across the great unknown. The distances are much greater than they appear and I can only imagine what went through their heads as they struggled across a few miles at a time. Thankfully I move along at a much quicker pace. All in all, it’s been another great week on the road.

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Snapshots: Paradise Valley - Humboldt County's Not Quite Ghost Town

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Snapshots: Paradise Valley - Humboldt County's Not Quite Ghost Town

Originally home to the Northern Paiute people, the first non-native person to come through the valley was probably Peter Ogden of the Hudson’s Bay Company, who arrived in 1828. Settlers came to the valley in 1863 and after trouble with the Paiute, Fort Winfield Scott was built for protection. Perhaps because of that, the town that grew up there was originally named Scottsdale and helped supply the area’s mines. It was renamed Paradise City in 1869 and Paradise Valley much later.. The catholic church in town is a reminder of the area’s Italian and Basque heritage. In the 1930s, the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) had a camp in town (which is still there today). They were responsible for building the Hinkey Summit/Canyon Creek Road as well as several stone bridges and buildings in the area. Agriculture is the main economic driver in the region these days. Paradise Valley is perhaps best known as the hometown of actress Edna Purviance who appeared in almost 30 films with Charlie Chaplin.

While I came to photograph the cool, old buildings in town, there are some beautiful new homes around as well. The two churches were beautiful and well kept and the saloon looks like it gets quite lively at times. It seems like it would be a wonderful place to live if you wanted to get away from it all. Today, Paradise Valley is home to just over a hundred people. It’s not really close to anything, but if you ever get the chance, stop by and have a wander. You’ll be glad you did. I hope you enjoy these photos from Paradise Valley, Nevada - Humboldt County’s not quite ghost town.

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This Week on the Road - January 22nd-29th

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This Week on the Road - January 22nd-29th

Hello Everyone!

It’s been a week of old towns, dusty bars and wide-open spaces as I made my way across the great state of Nevada along U.S. Highway 50. U.S. 50 is also called the Lincoln Highway and was established in 1913 as the first transcontinental road for cars. Back in 1986, Life Magazine called the stretch of U.S. 50 that crosses Nevada “the loneliest road in America”, something the local communities out here wear as a badge of honor. It’s a fascinating stretch of road that runs along the old Pony Express trail, was once a storied stagecoach route and was where the first transcontinental telegraph crossed the state. For some reason the railroad chose the northern route across Nevada which is where Interstate 80 runs today. That has left this stretch of road far less traveled and far more interesting and the historic (and active) mining towns along the way are all worth a visit in their own right. It’s one of my favorite road trips in the country and one I’ve made several times over the years, but it was nice to take an extra day or two and not feel rushed in the crossing…

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Snapshots: Southeast Oregon - A Different Side of the Beaver State

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Snapshots: Southeast Oregon - A Different Side of the Beaver State

When you say the word “Oregon” to most people, it’s highly unlikely that any of the photos in this post would pop into their heads. Most people picture The Beaver State as a lush, green place full of rivers and waterfalls or maybe the rugged coastline of Western Oregon. But the southeast is an important piece of the puzzle as well. Desert valleys and volcanic craters, snow dusted mountains and rugged frontier towns make up this corner of Oregon and it’s a fascinating place to visit. When I was there I had it almost all to myself. The people of the region are tough and life isn’t necessarily easy out there, but the wide open spaces sure let your soul breathe a little bit. If you ever get the chance, come for a visit. You may find yourself lingering longer than you thought you would. This ain’t Portland and it’s not trying to be. I hope you enjoy these photos from the beautiful southeast of Oregon, a very different side of the Beaver State.

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Snapshots: Enterprise - Small Town Charm in the Wallowa Valley

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Snapshots: Enterprise - Small Town Charm in the Wallowa Valley

One of the west’s most fascinating historical figures to me has always been Chief Joseph of the Wallowa Nez Perce. Joseph was both a warrior and a peacemaker but ended up in an impossible position in 1877 after a treaty guaranteeing his band’s place in the Wallowa Valley was broken and four white settlers were killed by his people in the aftermath. He fled towards the Canadian border with his band but was overtaken just shy of the border. In the aftermath of what has become known as the Nez Perce War, the Wallowa band was resettled on the Colville Reservation in Washington which I visited late last year. Joseph traveled far and wide speaking on behalf of his people and never gave up hope of returning to his beloved Wallowa Valley. He spoke so fondly of it that I knew I had to go visit the area when I had the opportunity. What I found was a stunning valley, surrounded by mountains and ribboned with rivers and lakes, As soon as I descended into the valley I could see why Chief Joseph was so passionate about it. In addition to being their traditional homeland and the place where their dead are buried, it clearly provided them with everything they would have ever needed.

Nestled in the heart of the Wallowa Valley is the town of Enterprise, an adorable little mountain town founded in 1886 and now home to about 2,000 people. Enterprise is both the county seat of Wallowa County and the main supply town for the region. The railroad arrived in 1908 allowing the Eastern Oregon Lumber Company to form a few years later. Lumber is still a major player in the local economy and, along with the local ranching operations, helps keep the town afloat. I loved the little historic downtown core which is clean and well-kept, and dinner at the Range Rider was also a treat. I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Enterprise and the Wallowa Valley and I hope you enjoy these photos from my visit.

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Snapshots: Granger - The City Where Dinosaurs Roam

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Snapshots: Granger - The City Where Dinosaurs Roam

Because when you’re driving in the middle of nowhere and you look to your left and see dozens of dinosaurs roaming through a little town, you just have to stop and take a look. When you’re 100% sure that they’re not moving, you can get out and take some photos. Granger installed its first dinosaur statue in the 1990s in an effort to attract tourism (keeping in mind that Jurassic Park came out in 1993). There are now over 30 dinosaurs around town and Granger hosts their annual DIno-Days each June. I thought it was a fantastic little town and definitely worth a stop. I hope you enjoy these photos from Granger, Washington - The City Where Dinosaurs Roam.

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Snapshots: Winthrop - Washington's Wild West Town

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Snapshots: Winthrop - Washington's Wild West Town

Winthrop is a great little Old West themed town on the east side of the North Cascade Mountains. The area was originally inhabited by the Methow People who made seasonal hunting and fishing camps along the Methow and Chewuch Rivers. In 1891, a man named Guy Waring, who had been a Harvard classmate of Theodore Roosevelt, made a homesteading claim at the confluence of the two rivers and established a trading post. As a town grew up around Waring’s store, they chose the name Winthrop after Major Theodore Woolsey Winthrop who had traveled extensively in Washington (and elsewhere) and was one of the first Union officers killed in the Civil War. Guy Waring irrigated the town, built a sawmill, started a cattle ranch and an apple farm and ran the Duck Brand Saloon in town (now Town Hall) before returning to the east in 1917. Winthrop carried on without him. The town was an early adapter to tourism with several dude ranches opening in the 1930s. When the road through the North Cascades was finally ready to open in 1972, the people of Winthrop adopted a plan to beautify the downtown area with an Old West theme. The result is a fun town that you have to simply have to stop and wander through. I had been to Winthrop before, several years ago, and was looking forward to checking it out again on this trip through. I love the architecture in Winthrop, especially the glistening white Farmers State Bank and the Old Schoolhouse Brewery. The Shafer Museum is also excellent and is mostly outdoors so it is accessible even outside of their business hours. I really enjoyed my stay in Winthrop and the cloudy skies helped portray how chilly it was there in late fall. I hope you enjoy these photos from beautiful downtown Winthrop, Washington’s Old West town.

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Snapshots: Coupeville - Whidbey Island's Waterfront Gem

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Snapshots: Coupeville - Whidbey Island's Waterfront Gem

Coupeville is an adorable little waterfront town on the shores of Penn Cove on Whidbey Island. The architecture reminds me of a quaint little New England town and is very well preserved. Originally Lower Skagit Indian land, the area was settled in the 1850s by Thomas Coupe, for whom the town is named. Coupeville is a small town with a population of right around 2000 people. It’s also home to Ebey’s Landing National Historic Reserve, the first site of its kind in the country which preserves the old buildings and countryside of the 19th century settlers. I had a great visit to Coupeville, enjoying coffee on the pier and wonderful views out over the water. There are some lovely little Victorian buildings around including the immaculate Anchorage Inn and Kineth House. I loved all of the seasonal and Halloween decorations that were up when I visited as well. The highlight of my visit was probably the fish and chips at Toby’s, though. You can get fish and chips everywhere in Washington, but these were the best I’ve had in a very long time. You should definitely check it out if you visit. I hope you enjoy these photos of tiny Coupeville, Whidbey Island’s waterfront gem.

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